Glamorous Romantic… Such are the Drapings

Gladys Rodríguez-Dod
Exclusively By Rex Fabrics
Fine Fabrics from Around

Inspired by Egyptian and Greco-Roman fashion, Madeleine Vionnet, the creator of the bias cut, is responsible for inventing the modern draping. Another great couturier of the era, Paul Poiret, also experimented with this style and managed to very successfully conceive an elegant and sensual image. Vionnet, however, designed directly on the body of the models, rather than cut the fabric as it was the custom then, thus the popularity of this technique.

Romantic and elegant, the draping is simply the way in which one handles the fabric so as to form folds that give a feeling to the material of a greater fall. It creates volume and is used strategically in areas that one wants to highlight. The fluidity with which the textures fall creates a very sexy style, never vulgar. The fabrics are numerous for drapings: muslin, chiffon, silk, lightweight gabardine, satin, taffeta and even corduroy. All will always enhance the silhouette and hide defects too.

Another great couturier of the Golden Era of Haute Couture was Madame Grès, who also immortalized draped designs and most stylish women wore with the assurance that they were going to standout for its beauty and chic. I remember interviewing her in the 1980s in her atelier. I marveled at the woman that, more than a designer she was a sculptor, always emphasizing curves with grace and good taste. Already well in her eighties, her attitude and conversation was clearly that of a young spirit. Her runway shows were admired because she always knew how to create drama for the moment, but with the characteristic of designs that would stand the passage of time.

All the great maisons echoed the style, although it was always presented in evening dresses, whose mastery of the techniques, sizing and soft colors could be spectacular. Some showed a fitted draping, others looser, but always producing a beautiful, flattering and elegant fall. It was actually ideal for an evening dress ―as it created a provocative silhouette― in materials that perfectly fitted the body, but without restrictions of any kind. They were bold and dazzling designs that ensured the magical and triumphal entry that we women love.

Now in 2013 everything has changed and the draping is no longer limited to the grand soirées, but common in this century in all types of garments, both for the day as after sunset. A suit can be designed with a draped piece… a blouse can have a draping detail to one side... a skirt can offer optical effects if it is draped... and cocktail dresses can use the fabric brilliantly so as to be completely draped.

In his sensational minis, VERSACE achieves it, with turquoise tones that create the allure of a modern and sexy woman. And for greater impact, add accessories in the same tone... and the results are spectacular!

The designs of ALEXANDER VAUTHIER remind us of Madame Grès, back when she reigned in her Parisian atelier at the Rue de la Paix. In white jersey, with draped details in the skirt and one-shoulder tops, they are modern and romantic. ZUHAIR MURAD is a favorite of the entertainment world, and often we see his designs walking down the red carpet all around the globe. He is now using marvelous textiles, such as a shiny taffeta or lamé, and draped exquisitely, in his evening dresses.

If your taste is dramatic, then ALEXIS MABILLE is the perfect designer for you. For this season he launched extraordinary designs and in unexpected tones such as charcoal, adding hoods to create a certain allure, mysterious and interesting. ELIE SAAB is the opposite. He always prefers being romantic and elegant, and his silk chiffon designs with exquisitely draped torsos are pure magic for those special December nights.

Brazilian CARLOS MIELE, an expert in evening fashions, shines during the new season for his great taste in using a range of colors, such as when he mixes red wine and fuchsia. And, even more, he gracefully drapes the torso showing his mastery of this technique.

And VIONNET, now reestablished in Paris, offers creations that have looked to the past for inspiration, as in their party dresses with two-tone panels: white and emerald green. These remind us of goddesses of the Olympus and possess the elegance and glamour of the past... but they are fashionable because today like yesterday they possess a superb elegance. Could one ask for more? Yes, it definitely will be a wonderful winter. All that remains now is that we meet at Rex Fabrics to order your draped outfits. But hurry up! I am waiting for you here!

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